Your router is the front door of your home network. Every phone, laptop, TV and camera in the house talks to the internet through it, so a weak setting there puts all of them at risk. The good news: securing it takes about 20 minutes and no special tools. This guide covers the settings that matter most, in order of importance.
The menu names differ between router makers, so look for similar wording in yours. Nothing here needs you to open the router or install software.
Tip: write down the current Wi-Fi name and password before you change anything, so you can reconnect your devices if needed.
The admin password protects the settings page, not the Wi-Fi itself. Many routers ship with a default one printed on the label or published in the manual, which anyone on your network could look up.
In the Wireless or Wi-Fi security section:
Anyone who has your Wi-Fi password can reach every device on your network. Use at least 12-16 characters, and change it if you've shared it widely over the years or if a former roommate or contractor still knows it.
After changing it, every device has to reconnect with the new password. If you forget what you saved, see how to find your WiFi password on Windows 11.
Firmware updates fix security holes that attackers actively look for.
Don't unplug the router while an update is installing.
WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup) lets devices join with a button press or an 8-digit PIN. The PIN method has known weaknesses. If you don't use WPS, turn it off under Wireless > WPS. You can still connect new devices by typing the password.
Remote management (also called remote access, web access from WAN or cloud access) lets someone reach the settings page from the internet. Unless you really need to manage the router while away from home, turn it off. If you use the maker's app, check that its account has a strong password and two-step verification.
UPnP lets devices open ports on the router by themselves. Some game consoles and apps rely on it, so turning it off can cause problems with online gaming or video calls. If you don't need it, turning it off reduces what a compromised device on your network can do. If something stops working afterwards, turn it back on.
Most routers can run a separate guest network. Use it for visitors and, if the router allows, for smart-home gadgets such as plugs, bulbs and cameras. Devices on the guest network can reach the internet but not your computers and phones.
Open the Connected devices, Attached devices or DHCP clients list. If you see something you don't recognize, change the Wi-Fi password so every device has to reconnect with the new one.
Neither hurts, but neither replaces a strong password and current firmware.
If a change leaves you without internet, restart the router and check the steps in router connected but no internet. As a last resort, most routers have a reset button that restores the factory settings, which also resets the admin and Wi-Fi passwords to the ones on the label, so you'd need to set everything up again.
Use WPA3 if your router and all your devices support it. If older devices can't connect, choose the WPA2/WPA3 mixed (transition) mode, or WPA2-AES. Avoid WEP, WPA and TKIP, which are outdated.
No. Default admin passwords are often printed on the router or published online. Change it to a long, unique password that is different from your Wi-Fi password.
Yes, if you don't use it. The PIN method of WPS has known weaknesses, and you can always connect devices by typing the Wi-Fi password instead.
Check at least every few months, or turn on automatic updates if the router offers them. If the maker no longer releases updates for your model, plan to replace it.
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